Consumers support traditional culture and recognize the aesthetic significance and cultural value, and the popularity of Chinese-style clothing continues to rise. In the past two years, the new Chinese-style clothing consumption boom ignited by consumers who are keen on Chinese style, clothing brands, and e-commerce platforms has swept across the country. As of the end of February 2024, there are more than 5,700 Hanfu-related companies nationwide, of which more than 2,600 new companies were registered in 2023, an increase of 354% over 2022.

Taking Douyin e-commerce as an example, according to the data of Douyin e-commerce's "2024 Douyin e-commerce female consumption trend data report", in 2023, the number of orders for new Chinese-style clothing consumed by female users on Douyin e-commerce increased by 195% year-on-year, among which the number of orders for horse-faced skirts increased by 841% year-on-year, and the growth rate of orders for Hanfu, Songjin jackets, and Xiangyunsha clothing was also considerable, with year-on-year growth of 336%, 225%, and 112% respectively.

Chinese style fabrics are mainly divided into 7 types of fabrics: gentle tulle, luxurious velvet, textured jacquard, moist satin, patterned lace, technological blends and Chinese style prints. Among them, textured jacquard is the most traditional and basic Chinese style fabric, and the materials include: silk, cuprammonium, acetate, viscose and other regenerated cellulose fibers.

The horse-faced skirt has become the "top stream" of the national trend. The jacquard machine that weaves and embroiders dense patterns on high-end horse-faced skirts is expensive. Due to the hot sales, the horse-faced skirt was selected as one of the top ten products of Taobao in 2023. The horse-faced skirt uses jacquard fabric, which can make the horse-faced skirt have a better sense of drape and make the pattern on the skirt look natural.

The pattern on the horse-faced skirt is designed manually, but the fabric production requires a fully automated jacquard machine. According to data from the Textile Raw Materials Network, a machine worth 400,000 to 500,000 yuan can produce an average of 40 to 50 meters of horse-faced skirt fabric every day, and each jacquard machine consumes about 15 to 20 tons of viscose filament per year (the increase of 1,000 jacquard machines will correspond to an increase in the annual demand for 15,000 to 20,000 tons of viscose filament).

With the arrival of the "Golden March and Silver April" and the graduation season, Chinese-style clothing such as horse-faced skirts are expected to continue to be popular, and the demand side is expected to remain high in the short term. According to Magic Mirror Insight data, in January 2024, Hanfu skirts, with horse-faced skirts as the main product, recorded sales of more than 300 million yuan on the Taobao platform, accounting for nearly 90% of the entire Hanfu category.

Jacquard fabrics and printed fabrics are two common types of fabrics. Jacquard fabrics usually require viscose filaments in the production process. Jacquard is a common process in textile fabrics. The pattern of jacquard fabric is woven directly into the fabric (not ordinary printing and embroidery), with different colors of warp and weft yarns interlaced and interwoven to form patterns of different colors; the pattern is woven directly during the weaving process, rather than later printing and dyeing.

Jacquard is a concave and convex pattern composed of warp and weft yarns interlaced. Printed fabrics are printed and dyed on the surface of the fabric through the printing process after the fabric is woven.

Printing processes include many methods, such as screen printing and roller printing. The patterns of printed fabrics are bright and varied, but compared with jacquard fabrics, the patterns are relatively flat. In comparison, the patterns of jacquard fabrics are more three-dimensional and have a richer feel.

Jacquard machines are divided into flat knitting machines and circular knitting machines, with a market size of about 2.2 billion yuan in 2023. Jacquard machines are commonly circular knitting machines, which are suitable for weaving grey fabrics for knitted outerwear and decorative items. The jacquard circular knitting machine is controlled by a needle selection mechanism to place the needles in different positions such as weaving, non-weaving and tucking to form different pattern structures.

There are three types of needle selection mechanisms: mechanical, electronic and jet, among which mechanical needle selection mechanisms are the most widely used. According to QY Research data, the global jacquard machine market sales reached 2.2 billion yuan in 2023, and it is expected to reach 3.4 billion yuan in 2030, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.9% (2024-2030).

The national style trend has helped jacquard fabrics continue to heat up, driving the rapid growth of domestic demand for viscose filaments. Viscose filaments are smooth and cool, bright in color, naturally degradable, and the moisture content meets the physiological needs of human skin. They are mainly used in high-end clothing and household textiles. In the downstream consumption structure, 50% are ply yarns, 30% are embroidery yarns, and 20% are weaving.

Among them, viscose filaments play an important role in jacquard fabrics: they have good ductility and strength, and can be used to weave jacquard patterns with three-dimensional sense and texture. Viscose filament can be used as the outline or filling line of the jacquard pattern to form texture and details. By adjusting the parameters of the line density, color and fineness of the viscose filament, different pattern effects can be achieved. In the jacquard weaving process, viscose filament is usually used with other yarns. By cleverly organizing and manipulating the position and tension of the viscose filament, different jacquard effects such as relief, shadow and layering can be achieved.

At the same time, the softness and plasticity of viscose filament also make the jacquard fabric more comfortable and three-dimensional, and increase the texture of the fabric. The rapid growth of national style clothing orders has helped the apparent consumption of viscose filament to rise steadily in the past three years. According to Baichuan Yingfu data, the apparent consumption of viscose filament reached 117,300 tons in 2023, a significant year-on-year increase of 51.28%.

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