Past and present life, encounter the beauty of jacquard together

2024-08-19

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When it comes to jacquard, what do you think of? Are they the ancient looms displayed in museums? Or are they the scenes in costume dramas where the weaver girl dances with her delicate hands holding silk threads, weaving all kinds of lifelike, dreamy and beautiful fabrics like magic?


The past of jacquard fabric

Generally speaking, people believe that jacquard fabric was born in France in 1801, and the English name of jacquard also comes from the Frenchman Joseph Marie Jacquard. This is actually because he was the first person to invent a single-operated jacquard loom. From then on, jacquard weaving entered the era of looms that can be operated by one person from the era of two-person manual looms. This is indeed a very remarkable invention and progress.

But returning to the jacquard fabric itself, China is far ahead of the world for many years. As early as the Western Han Dynasty, Chengdu Prefecture (the birthplace of Shu brocade) had developed a manual loom operated by two or more people at the same time, using a multi-weave and multi-tread weaving method to weave complex and diverse patterns.

When it comes to Chinese silk fabrics, in addition to the "silk and satin" that we often talk about, there is also the "icing on the cake" that we often mention. The "brocade" here is woven with a jacquard machine, which can be said to be the most complex jacquard fabric. More than 1,000 years ago, when there was no modern equipment, the Chinese were able to "icing on the cake" by hand, and we have to marvel at the wisdom of the ancients.

No wonder China's silk jacquard fabrics became famous all over the world through the circulation of the ancient Silk Road, and became the hard "currency" among European nobles at that time. The dignitaries were proud to wear silk jacquard clothing from China.


Characteristics of jacquard fabrics

Any fabric that can weave a large and colorful pattern on a shuttle loom or knitting machine without embroidery or printing can be called a jacquard fabric.

Jacquard fabrics are different from printed fabrics. Printing is flat, while jacquard fabrics are designed through patterns, and then go through complex dyeing, weaving and other processes, and finally present a lifelike pattern. Fabrics are naturally three-dimensional and mysterious, noble, sexy, or elegant. They can be worn in a variety of styles and can also be used in various high-end occasions. This is something that printed fabrics cannot match or interpret. This is probably why it is "fearless" and loved by luxury brands.

According to the size of the jacquard, it can be divided into large jacquard and small jacquard. Large jacquard generally refers to curved patterns or patterns, such as flower patterns. Small jacquard generally refers to straight-line patterns, such as lattice-like geometric figures. Through jacquard, from simple geometry to complex patterns can be displayed on fabrics. It can be said that jacquard is a revolutionary existence in the field of fabrics.

With the upgrading of weaving equipment, the technology and tools of computer jacquard design are becoming more and more mature... jacquard fabrics are becoming more and more diversified. At present, jacquard fabrics have been widely used by brands, and brands can make jacquard designs with their own characteristics according to their own tonality. For example, plain (monochrome) but different materials of warp and weft yarns are used to weave jacquard fabrics. When dyeing, because yarns of different materials have different coloring reactions to the same dye, colorful jacquard patterns will be formed.


The present life of jacquard fabrics

The inheritance and promotion of traditional Chinese culture has gradually gained attention, and the "national tide" has also emerged. The national tide style is the product of the combination of Chinese cultural elements and modern trend styles. It is an emerging style that uses brands to export local culture. Its rise reflects the current consumption attitude of the new generation of people who care about individual expression, and it is also a transformation method adopted by many brands to adapt to the trend change.

With the continuous improvement of China's international status, traditional Chinese culture is also loved by overseas people. Driven by many reasons, the "national tide" style is developing vigorously, which not only meets the fashion and unique personality pursued by young consumers, but also perfectly combines fashion with traditional Chinese culture.

Behind these national style and national tide elements, they are inseparable from a fabric-big jacquard. The horse-faced skirt seen on the street is it, the Hanfu is it, and even some cheongsams are it. Therefore, incorporating the characteristics of the national tide into fabric design has become one of the directions of textile product development.


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