Jacquard is a traditional Chinese textile craft. As early as the ancient Silk Road, Chinese silk was famous for its jacquard weaving craft. Today, I will tell you about the past and present of jacquard, so that you can understand the history of jacquard fabrics hidden in thousands of households.
Jacquard fabric craft, a classic and elegant inheritance
Jacquard is mainly composed of concave and convex patterns composed of warp and weft threads in textiles. Jacquard fabrics are a large category in the textile category, mainly used in the production of home textiles and fashion.
The jacquard process originated from the original waist machine embroidery. This process was used in oblique looms and horizontal looms in the Han Dynasty.
The flower-type jacquard machine appeared in the Eastern Han Dynasty, also known as the flower building. It is a representative of the highest achievements of ancient Chinese weaving technology. It uses a thread-made flower book to store the jacquard program, and then uses the Qu line to pull the warp open.
When weaving, two people work together, one is a flower worker, sitting on a three-foot-high flower building to pull the flower and heald, and the other is a weft weaving rod. In the Ode to the Weavers by Wang Yi of the Eastern Han Dynasty, the scene of weavers and jacquard workers working together to operate jacquard machines was described as "a slender and quiet woman, weaving and weaving, shaking and swaying, looking up and down to create a new look".
Until modern times, the birth of mechanical jacquard machines represented that the weaving of jacquard fabrics entered the mechanized era. Bidding farewell to traditional manual weaving, we maximized production efficiency through computers and mechanical jacquards. But the beauty and shock that traditional culture brings us is still incomparable to machinery.
The difference between jacquard and printing, weaving first and printing first
Jacquard fabrics are woven together when weaving, and the pattern is directly fixed, and the pattern cannot be selected after the fabric is formed.
Printing is to print the pattern after the fabric is completed, and there are many patterns to choose from.
The pattern of jacquard fabrics has a three-dimensional sense, but the thickness of the fabric will be greater and the relative cost is relatively high. Printing is flat, with clear patterns on the front and blurred on the back.
As a traditional craft of Chinese textiles, jacquard is an indispensable part of our cultural heritage. With the continuous growth of modern mechanical textile technology, more and more people have abandoned traditional handicrafts. Although we also rely on mechanical jacquard machines to produce fabrics, the editor hopes that this traditional craft can continue to be passed down, because machinery brings us benefits, and tradition leaves us wealth.
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